Well Pump Troubleshooting Guide

Before calling for service, try these troubleshooting steps. Many well problems have simple causes you can check yourself. About 30% of service calls are resolved with basic checks that any homeowner can perform.

Quick Diagnosis Chart

Symptom	Most Likely Cause	DIY Fix?
No water at all	Tripped breaker, failed pressure switch	Maybe
Low pressure	Waterlogged tank, clogged filter	Often
Pump runs constantly	Leak, failing pump, switch stuck	Rarely
Rapid cycling	Waterlogged tank (90% of cases)	No
Pump runs, no water	Lost prime, low well, broken pipe	Sometimes
Air sputtering from faucets	Low well level, leak in line	Rarely

Problem: No Water At All

This is the most common emergency call. Work through these steps in order:

Step 1: Check the Electrical Panel

Look for the breaker labeled "well," "pump," or "well pump."

• If tripped (middle position): Reset it firmly OFF then ON
• If it trips again immediately: STOP—electrical fault, call for service
• If it stays on: Proceed to Step 2
• Check for GFCI outlet: Some wells are on GFCI circuits that trip independently

Step 2: Check the Pressure Switch

Located on or near your pressure tank (usually a small gray box with wires).

• Press the small lever or arm on the pressure switch
• You should hear the pump turn on
• If nothing happens, the switch may be failed or no power is reaching it

Step 3: Check the Pressure Gauge

• Reads 0 PSI: No water in tank, pump not running
• Reads normal (30-50) but no water: Check for closed valves or blockage
• Needle doesn't move: Gauge may be failed

Problem: Low Water Pressure

Step 1: Check the Pressure Gauge

• Normal range: 40-60 PSI (or whatever your system is set to)
• If reading is low, the system isn't building proper pressure
• If reading is normal but pressure feels low, check for restrictions

Step 2: Check Pressure Tank Air Charge

1. Turn off pump at breaker
2. Open a faucet to drain the tank
3. Check air pressure at the tank's air valve (like a tire valve)
4. Should be 2 PSI below your cut-in pressure (typically 28-38 PSI)
5. Add air with a bicycle pump or compressor if low

Step 3: Check for Flow Restrictions

• Sediment filter: Check if clogged (most common cause)
• Water softener: May be in regeneration or clogged
• PRV (pressure reducing valve): May be failed or set too low
• Clogged aerators: Remove and clean faucet screens

Step 4: Check for Leaks

• Walk the property looking for wet spots
• Listen for running water when nothing is on
• Check toilets (drop food coloring in tank, see if it reaches bowl)

Problem: Pump Runs But No Water

The pump is operating (you hear it or see amp draw) but no water comes out:

For Jet Pumps (Above Ground)

• Lost prime: Check prime plug, may need to re-prime
• Foot valve stuck: Debris holding it closed
• Suction leak: Air entering line before pump

For Submersible Pumps (In Well)

• Low water level: Pump above water (especially in drought)
• Broken drop pipe: Water not reaching surface
• Check valve stuck: Water draining back into well
• Impeller failure: Pump spinning but not pumping

Test: Check for Pump Output

1. Find a hose bib or drain valve close to the pressure tank
2. Turn on pump and open valve
3. If water comes out there, problem is downstream
4. If no water, problem is pump or well

Problem: Pump Cycles Rapidly (Short-Cycling)

Pump turns on and off every few seconds instead of running for several minutes. This damages the pump motor.

Most Likely Cause: Waterlogged Tank (90% of cases)

Test: Press the air valve on the tank. If water comes out instead of air, the bladder has failed and tank needs replacement.

Other Causes

• Leak in system: Small leak causes frequent pressure drops
• Bad check valve: Water draining back into well between cycles
• Pressure switch issue: Cut-in and cut-out pressures too close

What to Do

Short-cycling causes premature pump failure. Turn off the pump until repaired. A new pressure tank costs $300-$800 installed—much less than a pump replacement ($1,500-$3,500).

Problem: Pump Won't Shut Off

Pump runs continuously without reaching cutoff pressure. This will burn out the motor.

Immediate Action

Turn off the pump at the breaker. Continuous running causes overheating.

Diagnose the Cause

• Check pressure gauge: Is it rising at all? Is it stuck below cutoff?
• Listen for running water: May have a significant leak
• Check fixtures: Stuck toilet fill valve, open hose, running irrigation?
• Tap the pressure switch: If pump stops, switch contacts may be stuck

Common Causes

• Water leak: Can't build pressure because water is escaping
• Pressure switch failed: Contacts welded closed from arcing
• Cutoff set too high: Beyond pump's capacity
• Failing pump: Worn impellers can't reach cutoff pressure
• Low well yield: Well can't supply enough water

Problem: Air Sputtering from Faucets

Water comes out in bursts mixed with air:

• Low well water level: Pump drawing air (especially during drought)
• Leak in drop pipe: Air entering line in well
• Leak in suction line: (Jet pumps) Air being drawn in
• Bad check valve: Air entering when pump cycles off

When to Call a Professional

• Breaker trips repeatedly
• Burning smell or visible sparks
• Problems persist after basic troubleshooting
• Need to access components inside the well
• Not comfortable working with electrical