By SCWS Team
Published January 30, 2026 · 10 min read
Your pressure tank is silently killing your $3,000 well pump. Every time it short-cycles because the tank lost its air charge, you're shaving months off your pump's life. The fix takes 30 minutes once a year and costs nothing. Here's exactly how to do it.
Your well pressure tank is the unsung hero of your water system—it maintains consistent pressure, reduces pump cycling, and extends the life of your well pump. Yet many homeowners never think about their pressure tank until something goes wrong. This comprehensive guide covers everything you need to know about pressure tank maintenance, from basic inspections to knowing when it's time for replacement.
Short-Cycling = Pump Killer
If your pump turns on/off every few seconds, your tank is waterlogged. Each start draws 5-7x normal electrical current and creates heat. This can burn out a pump motor in months instead of 15+ years. Fix it immediately.
Understanding Your Pressure Tank
Before diving into maintenance, it helps to understand how your pressure tank works. Modern well systems use bladder-type or diaphragm-type pressure tanks that contain a rubber bladder separating the air chamber from the water chamber.
How Pressure Tanks Work
When your well pump runs, it pushes water into the tank, compressing the air bladder. This creates stored pressure that pushes water through your home's plumbing when you open a faucet—without the pump needing to run. The tank provides:
- Consistent pressure: Maintains steady water pressure between pump cycles
- Reduced pump cycling: Stores water so the pump doesn't run for every small demand
- Pump protection: Fewer starts mean less wear on the pump motor
- Water hammer prevention: Cushions pressure spikes in the system
Types of Pressure Tanks
Understanding your tank type determines your maintenance approach:
- Bladder tanks: Most common modern type. Replaceable rubber bladder inside a steel shell. Air charge adjustable via Schrader valve.
- Diaphragm tanks: Similar to bladder tanks but with a fixed rubber diaphragm. Slightly less serviceable but very reliable.
- Air-over-water tanks: Older galvanized steel tanks without a bladder. Air and water in direct contact. Require regular air injection.
- Standard steel tanks: Oldest type, often painted blue. Need air volume controls and more maintenance.
Signs Your Pressure Tank Needs Attention
Recognizing early warning signs can prevent complete system failure and protect your pump:
1. Rapid Pump Cycling (Short Cycling)
The most common sign of pressure tank problems is your pump turning on and off rapidly—sometimes every few seconds. This happens when the tank loses its air charge and becomes "waterlogged," meaning it can no longer store pressure. Causes include:
- Failed bladder allowing air to escape into water
- Low air pressure that wasn't maintained
- Pinhole leak in the bladder
- Schrader valve leak (like a tire valve)
Why it matters: Short cycling is extremely hard on your pump motor. Each start draws high amperage and generates heat. A pump cycling every few seconds may fail within months instead of lasting 10-15 years.
2. Fluctuating Water Pressure
If your water pressure varies noticeably—strong at first, then weakening—your pressure tank may not be maintaining proper charge. You might notice:
- Shower pressure dropping when running water elsewhere
- Pressure surging when pump kicks on
- Pressure gauge needle bouncing erratically
- Water hammer (banging pipes) when fixtures close
3. Visible Tank Problems
Regular visual inspection can catch problems before they cause system failure:
- Rust on exterior: May indicate internal corrosion or condensation issues
- Water leaking from tank: Tank shell has corroded through
- Bulging tank: Overpressure situation—dangerous, address immediately
- Dents or damage: Can affect internal bladder
- Moisture around Schrader valve: Bladder may have failed, allowing water into air chamber
4. Water from Air Valve
When you press the air valve (Schrader valve) on top of the tank and water comes out instead of air, the bladder has failed. The water and air chambers are now connected, meaning the tank can no longer maintain an air charge and must be replaced.
5. Tank Sounds Full When Tapped
A properly functioning bladder tank should sound hollow when tapped near the top (air chamber) and solid near the bottom (water chamber). If the entire tank sounds solid when tapped, it's waterlogged—the air charge has been lost.
DIY Pressure Tank Maintenance
Many pressure tank maintenance tasks are straightforward DIY projects. Here's what you can do yourself:
Annual Air Charge Check and Adjustment
This is the most important maintenance task and should be done at least yearly. Here's the step-by-step process:
What You'll Need:
- Tire pressure gauge (0-60 PSI range)
- Air compressor or bicycle pump (for small adjustments)
- Garden hose (optional, for draining)
Steps:
- Turn off the pump: Switch off the circuit breaker for your well pump
- Drain the tank: Open a faucet and let water run until pressure gauge reads zero and water stops flowing
- Check air pressure: Remove the cap from the Schrader valve (looks like a tire valve) on top of the tank. Use your tire gauge to check the pressure.
- Compare to specification: Air pressure should be 2 PSI below your pressure switch cut-in setting. For a 40/60 switch, target 38 PSI. For 30/50, target 28 PSI.
- Adjust if needed: Add air with compressor if low. If high, briefly depress valve core to release air.
- Restore system: Close faucets, restore power to pump, let system pressurize, check for leaks
Critical: Drain First!
Always check air pressure with the tank completely drained. Checking with water in the tank gives false readings because the water pressure affects the gauge reading. Turn off pump, open a faucet until pressure gauge reads zero.
Monthly Visual Inspections
A quick monthly check can catch developing problems:
- Look for rust, corrosion, or water stains on tank exterior
- Check for water pooling around tank base
- Listen for abnormal pump cycling
- Note any changes in water pressure
- Inspect pipe connections for drips
- Check pressure gauge for consistent readings
Drain Valve Maintenance
If your tank has a bottom drain valve, exercise it annually to ensure it works:
- Attach a garden hose to the drain
- Turn off pump power
- Open the drain valve and let several gallons flow
- This flushes any sediment that's accumulated
- Close valve securely, restore power
When to Call a Professional
Some pressure tank issues require professional attention:
Situations Requiring Professional Service
- Failed bladder: Tank replacement is needed—this isn't repairable
- Severe corrosion: Tank integrity is compromised
- Tank sizing issues: If tank is undersized, you'll need professional assessment
- Pressure switch problems: Often confused with tank issues
- Persistent short cycling: May indicate pump problems, not just tank
- System evaluation: If you're unsure what's wrong
- Tank replacement: Involves plumbing connections and proper sizing
Why Proper Sizing Matters
If replacing your pressure tank, proper sizing is crucial. Too small means excessive pump cycling. Too large wastes money and space. Sizing depends on:
- Pump flow rate (gallons per minute)
- Desired drawdown (gallons between pump cycles)
- Pressure switch settings
- Household water demand patterns
A professional can calculate the correct size to protect your pump and meet your needs.
Pressure Tank Lifespan and Replacement
Expected Lifespan
Modern bladder tanks typically last:
- Premium brands (Well-X-Trol, Flexcon): 15-20 years with good maintenance
- Mid-range tanks: 10-15 years
- Economy tanks: 5-10 years
- Old galvanized tanks: 15-30 years (but require more maintenance)
Factors That Shorten Lifespan
- Corrosive water: Low pH or high mineral content attacks the bladder
- Sediment: Abrasive particles wear the bladder prematurely
- Improper air charge: Over or under-inflation stresses the bladder
- Excessive cycling: Undersized tanks or high demand wears bladder faster
- Chlorine: Can degrade rubber bladders over time
- Temperature extremes: Very hot or freezing conditions stress materials
Signs It's Time to Replace
Replace your pressure tank when:
- Bladder has failed (water coming from air valve)
- Tank shows significant rust or corrosion
- Tank is leaking water
- Tank cannot hold air charge despite no visible leaks
- Tank is over 15 years old and showing any problems
- Tank is undersized and causing pump cycling issues
Replacement Costs and Options
Typical Replacement Costs
Budget for these ranges when replacing a pressure tank:
- Tank only (20-gallon): $150-$300
- Tank only (40-gallon): $250-$450
- Tank only (80-gallon): $400-$700
- Professional installation: $200-$400 labor
- Total replacement cost: $400-$1,200 depending on size
Choosing a Replacement Tank
When selecting a new tank, consider:
- Quality brands: Well-X-Trol, Flexcon, and Amtrol have excellent track records
- Stainless steel connections: Resist corrosion better than standard brass
- Adequate size: Don't downsize to save money—it costs more long-term
- NSF certification: Ensures materials are safe for drinking water
- Warranty: Good tanks offer 5-7 year warranties
Maintenance Schedule Summary
Recommended Pressure Tank Maintenance Schedule
- Monthly: Visual inspection for rust, leaks, unusual sounds
- Quarterly: Check pressure gauge readings, listen for cycling patterns
- Annually: Check and adjust air charge, flush drain valve, inspect all connections
- Every 5 years: Professional inspection of entire well system
- 10-15 years: Plan for tank replacement
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should I check my well pressure tank?
Check your pressure tank air charge at least once per year, ideally before summer when water demand increases. Visual inspections for rust, leaks, or damage should be done monthly. If you notice any changes in water pressure or pump cycling, check the tank immediately regardless of your maintenance schedule.
How long do well pressure tanks last?
A quality bladder-type pressure tank typically lasts 10-15 years with proper maintenance. Factors affecting lifespan include water quality (corrosive or sediment-heavy water shortens life), proper air charge maintenance, and whether the tank is sized correctly for the system. Galvanized tanks without bladders may last 15-20 years but require more maintenance.
What PSI should my pressure tank be set at?
The air charge in your pressure tank should be set 2 PSI below the cut-in pressure of your pressure switch. For a standard 40/60 system (pump turns on at 40 PSI, off at 60 PSI), the tank air charge should be 38 PSI. For a 30/50 system, set it at 28 PSI. Always check with the system off and pressure relieved.
Can I add air to my pressure tank myself?
Yes, adding air to a bladder tank is a DIY-friendly task. Turn off the pump, open a faucet to drain pressure, then use a standard tire pressure gauge and air compressor to check and adjust the air charge through the Schrader valve on top of the tank. Never exceed the manufacturer's maximum pressure rating.
Need Pressure Tank Service?
Whether you need a simple air charge adjustment, tank replacement, or a complete system evaluation, we're here to help. Our technicians service all pressure tank brands and can properly size a replacement to protect your pump and meet your household's needs.