By SCWS Team
Published February 1, 2026 · 12 min read
Don't wait for complete failure. A pump that dies suddenly at 11 PM on a holiday weekend costs 2-3x more to replace than one you plan for. Here are the warning signs that tell you it's time—and how to know if a repair might buy you more time.
Your well pump is the heart of your water system, working silently underground to deliver water to your home every day. But like all mechanical equipment, it won't last forever. For California-specific well pump guidance and FAQs, visit California Groundwater FAQs. Knowing the warning signs of pump failure—and understanding when to repair versus replace—can save you from emergency situations and help you budget for this significant investment.
How Long Should a Well Pump Last?
Before we dive into warning signs, let's establish realistic expectations for pump lifespan. Understanding what's normal helps you recognize when something's wrong.
Submersible Pump Lifespan: 10-15 Years
Quality submersible pumps typically last 10-15 years under normal conditions. These workhorses sit at the bottom of your well, submerged in water, continuously exposed to minerals, sediment, and the stress of pumping water hundreds of feet to the surface. Some pumps in ideal conditions (clean water, stable electricity, proper sizing) last 20+ years, while pumps dealing with sandy or mineral-heavy water may fail in 5-8 years.
Jet Pump Lifespan: 10-20 Years
Jet pumps, which sit above ground in a pump house or basement, often last longer than submersible pumps—sometimes 20+ years. They're easier to access for maintenance and repairs, and they're not constantly submerged in potentially corrosive water. However, they're less efficient for deep wells and more prone to problems in freezing conditions.
Factors That Affect Pump Lifespan
- Water quality: Sand, sediment, and abrasive minerals wear impellers faster
- Cycling frequency: Pumps that turn on/off frequently (short cycling) wear faster
- Proper sizing: Undersized pumps work harder; oversized pumps cycle too often
- Electrical stability: Power surges and brownouts damage motors
- Running dry: Even brief dry running causes overheating and motor damage
- Depth: Deeper installations create more stress on the pump
The 50% Rule
If repair costs exceed 50% of replacement cost, replace the pump. You'll get full lifespan from new equipment instead of partial life from patched equipment. This rule becomes absolute when pumps are over 10 years old.
The Warning Signs: When Your Pump Is Failing
Pay attention to these warning signs. Catching problems early can sometimes extend pump life with repairs, but recognizing when replacement is inevitable helps you plan rather than panic.
1. Age: The Most Reliable Indicator
If your pump is over 10 years old and showing any other symptoms, strongly consider replacement rather than repair. Even if a 12-year-old pump can be repaired today, you may face more repairs within months. At some point, you're throwing good money after bad.
Don't know your pump's age? Check the installation paperwork, look for a date stamp on the pump or control box, or contact previous owners. If unknown, assume pumps in older homes (pre-2010) may be due for replacement.
2. Unusual Noises
While you can't hear a submersible pump 200 feet underground, you may hear problems at the surface:
- Rapid clicking: Pressure switch engaging/disengaging rapidly (short cycling)
- Groaning or humming: Motor struggling—sound travels up the drop pipe
- Grinding or scraping: Worn bearings or sediment in the pump
- Water hammer (banging): Check valve or pressure problems
For jet pumps located above ground, you can hear problems more directly. A healthy pump should run smoothly; grinding, squealing, or excessive vibration indicates wear.
3. Rapid Cycling (Short Cycling)
If your pump turns on and off every few minutes—or even every few seconds—something is wrong. This rapid cycling causes extreme wear on the pump motor and dramatically shortens lifespan. Causes include:
- Waterlogged pressure tank: Most common cause—bladder has failed
- Failed check valve: Water drains back, pump restarts
- Pressure switch issues: Improper adjustment or component failure
- System leaks: Underground pipe breaks or plumbing leaks
Sometimes the pump itself isn't the problem—the pressure tank or check valve is. But if these components have been ruled out, a failing pump motor may be the culprit.
4. Pump Runs Constantly
A pump that never shuts off is working beyond its capacity or fighting a losing battle. This constant running causes overheating and premature failure. Possible causes:
- Worn impellers: Pump can't build enough pressure to trigger shutoff
- Significant leak: Running toilet, broken pipe, or irrigation leak
- Low water table: Pump can't keep up with demand
- Clogged or damaged drop pipe: Restricting flow
- Pump set too deep: Now in insufficient water after table drop
If your well has adequate water and no leaks, a constantly running pump usually means internal wear—time for replacement.
5. Low or Fluctuating Water Pressure
Pressure problems develop gradually as pumps wear. You might notice:
- Shower pressure weakening over time
- Pressure dropping significantly when multiple fixtures run
- Pressure swinging widely during normal use
- Pressure lower than your system's normal range
Worn impellers can't move water as efficiently, so the pump delivers less pressure and flow. If your pressure tank is healthy and properly charged, and the pressure switch is adjusted correctly, declining pressure usually points to pump wear.
6. Air Sputtering from Faucets
When you turn on a faucet and get bursts of air mixed with water, the pump may be failing. Air in the lines indicates:
- Pump losing prime or drawing air
- Drop pipe leak allowing air into the system
- Water table dropped below pump intake
- Cracked or damaged well casing
Occasional air right after pump work is normal, but persistent air in your water needs investigation. The cause may be the pump, the well, or the piping.
7. Dirty, Sandy, or Discolored Water
Sudden changes in water quality can indicate pump failure:
- Sand or grit: Failed pump screens or impeller wear
- Brown or rusty water: Pump corrosion or casing deterioration
- Sediment increase: Pump pulling from well bottom
Note: Water quality problems can also indicate well problems rather than pump problems. Professional diagnosis is important to determine the source.
8. Higher Electricity Bills
A failing pump works harder, drawing more electricity. If your electric bill spikes without other explanation:
- Motor running longer to build pressure
- Pump cycling more frequently
- Motor drawing higher amps as windings deteriorate
- Worn bearings creating resistance
Track your electricity usage. A significant, unexplained increase often precedes complete pump failure.
9. Pump Tripping the Breaker
If your well pump keeps tripping the electrical breaker:
- Motor windings are shorting
- Pump is mechanically seized
- Electrical components have failed
- Wiring has deteriorated
Don't keep resetting the breaker—this is a serious warning sign. A pump that repeatedly trips the breaker usually needs replacement, not repair.
10. No Water at All
Complete water loss is the final warning—by this point, the pump has failed. Before assuming pump failure, check:
- Is the breaker tripped?
- Is there power at the pressure switch?
- Did the pressure switch contacts fail?
- Is the control box working (for submersible pumps)?
If power is reaching the pump and it won't run, the motor has failed. If it runs but produces no water, the impellers have likely broken.
Repair vs. Replace: Making the Right Decision
This is often the hardest question for well owners. Here's a framework for deciding:
When to Repair
- Pump is under 7-8 years old with its first significant issue
- Problem is with surface components (pressure switch, control box, check valve)
- Single minor failure in an otherwise healthy system
- Repair cost is under 30% of replacement cost
- Pump has warranty coverage still valid
When to Replace
- Pump is over 10 years old—even if repairable, more failures are coming
- Motor has failed—repairs rarely make economic sense
- Multiple recent repairs—you're fighting a losing battle
- Repair cost exceeds 50% of replacement—put that money toward new equipment
- Water damage to motor—internal corrosion will continue
- Pump is undersized—upgrade while replacing
- You're pulling the pump anyway—labor is a major cost, so replace while it's out
The 50% Rule
If repair costs exceed 50% of replacement cost, replace the pump. You'll get full lifespan from new equipment rather than partial life from patched equipment. This rule becomes even more compelling as pumps age past 10 years.
Cost Considerations: What to Expect
Pump Replacement Costs
Well pump replacement costs vary based primarily on well depth and pump size:
- Shallow well jet pump (under 25 feet): $800-$1,500
- Deep well jet pump (25-100 feet): $1,000-$2,000
- Submersible pump (100-300 feet): $1,500-$2,500
- Submersible pump (300-500 feet): $2,500-$3,500
- Submersible pump (500+ feet): $3,500-$5,000+
These prices include the pump, labor, and standard materials. Additional work (upgrading electrical, replacing drop pipe, adding components) increases costs.
Repair Costs for Comparison
- Pressure switch replacement: $150-$300
- Pressure tank replacement: $400-$1,200
- Control box replacement: $200-$500
- Check valve replacement: $200-$400
- Service call and diagnosis: $150-$300
Note: If the submersible pump must be pulled for repairs (like replacing the check valve at the pump), you're already paying for much of the labor cost of replacement.
Getting the Most from Your New Pump
When you do replace your pump, take steps to maximize its lifespan:
Proper Sizing
Work with your well professional to size the pump correctly. Factors include:
- Well depth and static water level
- Recovery rate of the well
- Peak household demand
- Distance from well to house
- Irrigation or special needs
Quality Equipment
Don't skimp on the pump itself. Quality brands like Grundfos, Franklin Electric, and Goulds cost more upfront but last longer and include better warranties. Cheap pumps often fail within a few years.
Protective Components
Consider adding protection:
- Surge protector: Protects against electrical damage
- Low-water cutoff: Prevents dry running
- Cycle counter: Monitors pump health over time
- Proper pressure tank sizing: Reduces cycling
Regular Maintenance
Annual inspections catch problems early. Check pressure tank air charge, test pressure switch operation, and monitor system performance. Small maintenance prevents expensive failures.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long should a well pump last?
A quality submersible well pump typically lasts 10-15 years under normal conditions. Jet pumps may last 10-20 years since they're above ground and easier to maintain. Factors affecting lifespan include water quality (sediment, sand, minerals), pump cycling frequency, proper sizing, and electrical stability. Some pumps in ideal conditions last 20+ years, while pumps in harsh conditions may fail in 5-8 years.
Is it better to repair or replace a well pump?
Replace rather than repair if: the pump is over 10 years old, repair costs exceed 50% of replacement cost, you've had multiple repairs in recent years, the motor has failed, or water quality has damaged internal components. Repair makes sense for: newer pumps with minor issues, problems with surface components (pressure switch, control box), or single failures in otherwise healthy systems.
How much does well pump replacement cost?
Well pump replacement typically costs $1,500-$4,500 including the pump and professional installation. Shallow well jet pumps cost $800-$1,500. Submersible pumps for 100-300 foot wells cost $1,500-$2,500. Deep well pumps (300+ feet) cost $2,500-$4,500 or more. The primary cost factor is well depth—deeper wells require more labor and larger pumps.
What are the signs of a failing well pump?
Key warning signs include: pump running constantly or cycling rapidly, low or fluctuating water pressure, air sputtering from faucets, unusual noises (clicking, grinding, humming), dirty or sandy water, high electricity bills, and complete loss of water. If your pump is showing multiple symptoms, especially if it's over 10 years old, replacement is likely needed.
Can I replace my well pump myself?
DIY well pump replacement is not recommended for submersible pumps. They require specialized equipment to pull hundreds of feet of pipe and pump, and improper installation can damage the pump, contaminate your well, or create safety hazards. Jet pumps and surface components are more accessible but still involve electrical work that should be done by professionals.
Need a Professional Assessment?
If your pump is showing warning signs, don't wait for complete failure. Our technicians can diagnose the problem and give you honest advice about repair vs. replacement. We service all pump brands throughout San Diego and Riverside Counties.