By SCWS Team
January 30, 2026 · 12 min read
That humming sound from your pump house should come and go. If it doesn't stop—ever—you're racing against the clock. A well pump that runs constantly is like a car engine redlined for hours: something's going to break, and it's going to be expensive. We've seen homeowners turn a $200 pressure switch problem into a $3,000 pump replacement by waiting too long. Don't let that be you. Let's figure out what's causing your pump to run non-stop—and how to fix it before it burns out.
🚨 Important: Time Is Critical
A well pump that won't shut off can burn out within days or weeks of continuous running. Submersible pumps rely on cycling off to cool down. If your pump is running constantly right now, consider shutting off the power until you can diagnose and fix the problem—this could save you thousands in pump replacement costs.
How a Normal Well Pump System Works
Before we dive into problems, let's understand how your well system should operate. Your well pump and pressure tank work together in a cycle:
- Pump turns on when pressure drops to the "cut-in" point (typically 30-40 PSI)
- Pump fills the pressure tank until pressure reaches the "cut-out" point (typically 50-60 PSI)
- Pump shuts off and the pressurized tank supplies water to your home
- Cycle repeats when you use enough water for pressure to drop again
⏱️ Normal Pump Behavior
A properly working pump should run for 1-2 minutes to fill the pressure tank, then shut off. If your pump runs more than 5 minutes continuously or cycles every few seconds, there's a problem.
When your well pump keeps running and never reaches cut-out pressure, it means either water is escaping faster than the pump can supply it, or the pressure system isn't sensing pressure correctly. Let's explore each possible cause.
7 Common Causes of a Well Pump That Won't Shut Off
1. Faulty Pressure Switch
The pressure switch is the brain of your well system—it tells the pump when to turn on and off. When it fails, your pump may never receive the signal to stop running.
Signs of a bad pressure switch:
- Pump runs continuously even when pressure gauge shows adequate pressure
- Burned or corroded contacts inside the switch
- Switch fails to "click" when pressure changes
- Erratic pump cycling (on-off-on rapidly)
DIY Check: Turn off the pump, remove the pressure switch cover, and inspect the contacts. Look for pitting, burning, or corrosion. You can gently clean contacts with fine sandpaper, but replacement is often the better solution.
Fix: Pressure switch replacement is a relatively simple repair costing $150-$300 including parts and labor. This is one of the most common fixes for a well pump that won't shut off.
2. Water Leak in Your Plumbing System
This is one of the most common reasons why your well pump is always on. If water is leaking somewhere in your system, the pump continuously tries to maintain pressure but can never reach the cut-out point.
Signs of a leak:
- Unexplained wet spots in your yard
- Water bill seems high (if on city sewer)
- Running water sound when nothing is on
- Pressure slowly drops when pump is off
- Toilets running or faucets dripping
DIY Check: Turn off all water fixtures and appliances. Watch your pressure gauge—if pressure slowly drops over 15-30 minutes with nothing running, you have a leak somewhere. Check toilets first (a common culprit), then look for wet spots around the house and yard.
Fix: Locate and repair the leak. This could be as simple as replacing a toilet flapper ($10) or as complex as repairing an underground pipe ($500-$2,000+).
3. Waterlogged Pressure Tank
Your pressure tank contains a rubber bladder that separates air from water. The air cushion allows the tank to store pressurized water and reduce pump cycling. When this bladder fails or loses air, the tank becomes "waterlogged"—filled entirely with water and no air cushion.
Signs of a waterlogged tank:
- Pump cycles on and off every few seconds (rapid cycling)
- Tank feels heavy and sounds solid when tapped (no hollow sound at top)
- Water spurts from air valve when pressed
- Tank sweats or has condensation
DIY Check: With the pump off and system drained, check the air pressure at the tank's Schrader valve (like a tire valve). It should read about 2 PSI below your cut-in pressure—so if your switch cuts in at 40 PSI, the tank should have 38 PSI of air. If little or no air comes out, the tank is waterlogged.
Fix: Sometimes you can recharge the air in the tank, but if the bladder has failed, the tank needs replacement. Pressure tank replacement costs $300-$800 depending on tank size. Learn more about our well pump repair services.
4. Failing Check Valve
The check valve sits at the top of your pump (or in the piping above it) and prevents water from flowing back down into the well when the pump stops. If this valve fails, water drains back down, the pressure drops, and the pump has to run again to refill the system.
Signs of check valve failure:
- Pump cycles frequently (every few minutes)
- Air spurts from faucets when first turned on
- Pressure drops quickly after pump shuts off
- You hear water flowing back down the well after pump stops
DIY Check: Turn off the pump when the system is pressurized. Monitor the pressure gauge—if pressure drops steadily without any water being used, the check valve may be failing (though a leak would cause the same symptom).
Fix: Check valve replacement typically costs $200-$400. If the check valve is at the pump (hundreds of feet down), this becomes a more significant job requiring the pump to be pulled.
5. Low Water Level in the Well
If your well's water level has dropped below the pump intake, the pump will run but won't produce water—or will produce very little. This causes the pump to run constantly trying to build pressure it can never achieve.
Signs of low water level:
- Sputtering, air-filled water from faucets
- Sandy or muddy water
- Problem is worse during drought or dry seasons
- Problem is worse after heavy water use
- Neighbors reporting similar issues
Why this happens: Drought conditions, increased neighborhood water usage, or a declining aquifer can all lower water tables. In some cases, the well may need deepening, or a new well may be required. See our guide on proper well depth in San Diego.
Fix: A professional can measure your static water level and determine if low water is the issue. Solutions range from lowering the pump ($1,000-$2,500), deepening the well ($5,000-$15,000), or drilling a new well. Visit our well drilling page for more information.
6. Pump Wear or Failure
Well pumps don't last forever. After 10-15 years (or sooner with heavy use or prior running issues), internal components wear out and the pump loses efficiency. A worn pump may run constantly because it simply can't produce enough pressure anymore.
Signs of pump wear:
- Gradually declining water pressure over months/years
- Pump used to shut off properly but now runs longer
- Pump is 10+ years old
- Higher than normal electricity bills
- Pump sounds different (grinding, humming)
Fix: If pump wear is the cause, replacement is the only solution. Well pump replacement costs $1,500-$3,500 or more depending on well depth and pump size.
7. Clogged or Restricted Pipe
Mineral buildup, sediment, or a damaged pipe can restrict water flow, preventing the pump from building adequate pressure.
Signs of pipe restriction:
- Reduced flow at all fixtures
- Problem developed gradually
- Hard water deposits visible on fixtures
- Old galvanized steel pipes
Fix: Pipe inspection and repair or replacement. Cost varies widely depending on location and extent of the problem.
How to Diagnose Your Well Pump Problem
Here's a systematic approach to figuring out why your well pump runs constantly:
Step-by-Step Diagnosis
- Check for obvious leaks: Walk your property looking for wet spots. Check all toilets, faucets, and water-using appliances.
- Monitor the pressure gauge: Watch it while the pump runs. Does pressure rise steadily, slowly, or not at all?
- Test for hidden leaks: With all water off, does pressure hold steady for 30+ minutes?
- Check the pressure tank: Tap on it—does it sound hollow at top and solid at bottom?
- Inspect the pressure switch: Look for burned contacts or corrosion.
- Note water quality: Air bubbles, sand, or discoloration suggest low water level.
- Consider history: How old is your pump? Any recent changes?
When to DIY vs. Call a Professional
You Can Often Handle:
- Fixing a running toilet or dripping faucet
- Adding air to the pressure tank (if bladder is intact)
- Cleaning pressure switch contacts
- Replacing the pressure switch (if comfortable with electrical work)
Call a Professional For:
- Pressure tank replacement
- Check valve replacement (especially if at the pump)
- Any work involving the pump itself
- Low water level issues
- Underground leak detection and repair
- If you're unsure about the cause
⚡ Safety Warning
Well pumps run on 240-volt electricity. Always turn off power at the breaker before inspecting electrical components. If you're not comfortable working with electrical systems, call a professional. The risk isn't worth the savings.
The Cost of Ignoring a Constantly Running Pump
"Every hour of continuous running brings your pump closer to failure. We've seen pumps that should last 15 years burn out in weeks because owners waited too long."
Some homeowners hear their pump running constantly and think "I'll deal with it later." This is a costly mistake:
🚨 The Cost of Waiting
- • $200 pressure switch → $3,000 pump replacement
- • $50-$150/month in extra electricity
- • Hidden water damage from leaks
- • Complete system failure with no warning
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my well pump run constantly and never shut off?
A well pump that runs constantly is usually caused by one of these issues: a failing pressure switch, a water leak in your plumbing, a waterlogged pressure tank, a failing check valve, or low water levels in your well. The pump keeps running because it can't build enough pressure to trigger the shut-off point.
How long should a well pump run before shutting off?
A properly functioning well pump should run for 1-2 minutes to fill the pressure tank, then shut off until pressure drops to the cut-in point (typically 30-40 PSI). If your pump runs for more than 5 minutes continuously or cycles on and off every few seconds, there's a problem that needs attention.
Can a well pump burn out from running constantly?
Yes, a well pump running continuously will eventually burn out. Submersible pumps are designed for intermittent use and rely on off-cycles to cool down. Continuous running causes overheating, which damages the motor windings and seals. A constantly running pump may fail within weeks or months instead of lasting 10-15 years.
How do I know if my pressure tank is waterlogged?
To check for a waterlogged pressure tank: turn off the pump, drain some water, then tap on the tank. A healthy tank sounds hollow at the top (air) and solid at the bottom (water). A waterlogged tank sounds solid throughout. You can also check the air pressure at the tank's valve—it should be 2 PSI below the cut-in pressure when empty.
How much does it cost to fix a well pump that won't shut off?
Repair costs vary by cause: pressure switch replacement costs $150-$300, pressure tank replacement runs $300-$800, check valve replacement is $200-$400, and if the pump itself has burned out from running constantly, replacement costs $1,500-$3,500 or more depending on well depth and pump size.
Get Expert Help Today
If your well pump runs constantly and you can't identify the cause—or you've identified it but need professional help—don't wait. Every hour of continuous running brings your pump closer to failure.
At Southern California Well Service, we diagnose and repair well pump problems throughout San Diego County. Our experienced technicians can quickly identify why your pump won't shut off and provide cost-effective solutions—often the same day.
Stop That Pump Before It Burns Out
A constantly running pump is an emergency. Our technicians are available for same-day service throughout San Diego County. We'll diagnose the problem, explain your options, and get your system working properly—before a small problem becomes a big one.